The movement of sustainable fashion has gained momentum as voices echo the urgency for an eco-friendly future. Amidst applause for the industry’s efforts in recycling – particularly polyester – a critical assessment is needed. Early last year 2023, we had a panel discussion at Kofisi Kenya where I picked from my fellow panelist Deepa Dosaja that polyester recycling is a whole issue that needs attention. Since then, I have been trying to peel back the layers of what’s publisized as “sustainable” and examine the realities hidden within the folds of recycled polyester.
The Paradox of Polyester Recycling
Polyester, applauded for its recycling potential, has encouraged many brands to push their environmental commitments. I have found that the fine print reveals uncomfortable truths. This material, a byproduct of the fossil fuel industry, is crucially linked to petrochemicals, notorious for their environmental detriments, including the increase of microplastics and the spread of toxins. According to Fosil Fuel campaign , “The majority of the clothes we wear are made from oil and gas. Synthetic fibre production uses the equivalent amount of oil per year as the whole of Spain and polyester production produces as much emissions as 180 coal fired power stations a year.”
Recycling polyester, often portrayed as a silver bullet, risks being a glorified stopgap. I was reading some recent studies which hint at the complexities – the recycled polyester (rPES), especially from bottles, can house more toxins than its virgin counterpart. The claim is bold and requires substantiation. Science Advances challenges the rPES narrative, providing evidence that recycled does not always mean less harmful.
Recycling vs. Upcycling: The Path We Choose
At Eco Fashion Week Africa, we recognize the challenges of polyester recycling and its performance against the nine planetary boundaries – a framework that evaluates the planet’s critical thresholds. Instead, we direct our efforts towards upcycling natural fabrics that mitigate environmental impacts.
The natural fiber textile offers a breath of fresh air with its biodegradable properties, embodying the spirit of true sustainability. For the curious and concerned, further reading on the benefits of natural textiles vs. synthetic ones is available on Textile Exchange, a leading global nonprofit organization that champions sustainable practices in the textile industry.
The Illusion of Greenwashing
Greenwashing misleads well-intentioned consumers with false eco-credentials. I have personally been misled and still find myself falling for some brands that greenwash because they have mastered the mind of the consumer and our patterns. As an advocate for true sustainability, I try not to turn a blind eye to this practice. Authoritative resources like the Environmental Working Group provide critical insights into such corporate deception, stripping the ‘eco-friendly’ disguises that hide the environmental costs of synthetic textile production and recycling.
Grassroots Actions and Authentic Sustainability
At Eco Fashion Week Africa, our narrative is different. We champion the sustainable journey of garments made from organic cotton, linen, silk, wool, and hemp – fibers that offer longevity and biodegradability, minimizing the environmental footprint. The process shuns chemical treatments, embracing natural dyes instead, as endorsed by the Organic Materials Review Institute.
The Way Forward: A Call for Conscious Choices
We invite you to join us in celebrating the artisans, designers, and brands that are pioneering authentic sustainable practices. Let us support fashion that honors the Earth, selecting pieces that contribute to a healthier ecosystem.
Informed decisions can trickle through the industry. It’s time to be discerning in our fashion choices, distinguishing between performative sustainability and genuine change.
Join us in this pledge for real change. Explore our mission, our passion, and our commitment to the genuine revival of our environment at Eco Fashion Week Africa.
Let’s dress the world not just in clothes, but in hope and action. The change begins with us, one thread at a time.
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